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SIlent Flashes Forward

Ria by Alexandra Utzmann for CR Fashion Book @riasalvation @alexandrautzmann @crfashionbookRia by Alexandra Utzmann for CR Fashion Book @riasalvation @alexandrautzmann @crfashionbook

If someone were to create a board game around the idea of 'making the model', the pathways and the rule set would be quite easy to map out. A wide eyed nubie…in a digital sheet, sped to the great model breakers... and then…quick... the snap up to the exclusives and coveted slots, hopefully catching the eye of the power designers, stylists, photographers and booking editors that keep fashion in a state of maximum relevancy.

The equivalent to that model making process, is the cycles in which the market looks for a management company that reflects an idea or an ideal that keeps the booking game from becoming too settled around the same agencies always. Every few seasons tastemakers hunt for an agency that introduces a fresh new angle on model tastes.That's fashion, all flux. The tides must shift... just because.

In that regard, through a build up of bookings at Interview, 032c, CR Fashion Book and iD, not to mention the recent Resort and Couture runways for Calvin, Altazarra, Gucci, Vuitton, Dior and Valentino, Silent NY which has been flashing an interesting signal in recent months as the hot new shop for directional clients to cull cool new faces.

Silent's President, Peter Fitzpatrick has always been one of my favorite managers to stop in for a lunch or breakfast whenever I'm in New York. I would put good money down that he's a natural born chess player. In talking about the business with him, I always sense a very good critical intelligence at play…gathering as much information as it trades, even as it is filtering out to the bigger picture of what modeling could mean in a digital era. Between quantifiable metrics and qualified tastes, there are always new possibilities waiting to be forged . The 6 years of dedicated work at Silent has more than acclimatized him to the subtle nuances of management and I've always wondered how a super-smart Harvard grad such as Peter ended up at the non-stop carnival that is the modeling industry. Here's what he divulged.

FASHION THAT ADMITS TO AN EMOTION.

There was something that took flight in this Dior SS 15 showing that moved Simons into the realm of the historic.There was something that took flight in this Dior SS 15 showing that moved Simons into the realm of the historic.

Do you notice how emotional fashion people have been this season? The ennui that made an emotional vacuum of the anti-spectacle of the Marc Jacobs. Tears at the Prada. Awe at the Dior. And then there was Phoebe Philo's honest and (gasp) heartfelt expression of uncertainty..or what Philo described to style.com as "being aware of the connection between creativity and risk".

As fashion has blurred faster and faster, moving now, almost at the speed of light, or at least fiber optic cables, it has felt as if it had also gotten more cynical. What used to be a tight little hermetic circle of taste and cool has been blown open to something of a mob scene with a lot of carelessness and crassness to go with it. But the true talent that anchor this industry had always held themselves to principles of both passion and excellence.

Hooray For The Fresh New League at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2014

Space Age beauty on a 21st century frequency.Space Age beauty on a 21st century frequency.

CURRENT VIEWING: 'Esprit Dior' : The Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai : Curated by Florence Müller

A dedicated follower of fashion  can  certainly watch that  Globalist/Art dialogue played out on Raf Simon's Dior runways these daysA dedicated follower of fashion can certainly watch that Globalist/Art dialogue played out on Raf Simon's Dior runways these days

Watching the fashion conglomerates grapple with the twin incursions of contemporary art culture and of the nebulous mass that is globalism, is entertainment in and of itself.

Herve Van Der Straeten: Total Oeuvre

Galerie Van Der Straeten is located at 11, rue Ferdinand Duval 75004 PARISGalerie Van Der Straeten is located at 11, rue Ferdinand Duval 75004 PARIS

What if you are a design fanatic trying to trace that line from Art Deco to Memphis to a contemporary complement to those prior aesthetics?

The Moral Lessons of Luxury

Christian Dior Paris 1953Christian Dior Paris 1953

In the six or nine months or 12 months that it will take to rehabilitate John Galliano's post Dior reputation, what would a cynic come up with by way of damage control strategy?

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Taste is a dictatorship.

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