In the late 80's/Early 90's Sebastian Cardin captivated Paris with a long lithe body, a boy beauty and a sang froid so chilly it impressed even...the French. Lagerfeld liked it. As did the New Turks, Mugler and Gaultier who used Sebastian's boy/girl fusion to maximum effect. That apparent indifference, that supreme lack of desperation...it served her well on the pages of Elle when that Early 90's Elle with it punchy, color-driven layouts, put the fear of God in the Grand Lady glossies.
Submitted by Wayne on Sat, 2014-08-02 15:50.
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Submitted by Wayne on Wed, 2014-07-30 21:32.
Beauty is artifice, if the beauty you're talking about is cosmetic. Natural's not in it, much as it pretends to be. The post-digital usually veils this, with great sleight of hand, in the best beauty campaigns and the most seductive editorials, touting the power of the product to transform and transcend. Do we believe this anymore ? I think we do. No matter how far you take it, no matter how Brechtian your post-production gets as an image-maker, we will always want to believe that not only is the image real, but that it is also possible. That is the art of artifice, which is what 21st century fashion has become.
Submitted by Wayne on Mon, 2014-07-28 19:07.
By the time we surfaced out of the tunnel and eased into New York City itself, it was 3:30am. Despite ten thousand returns, the first sight of all those vertical towers jutting overhead, so high they seemed to converge, still made for a sharp intake of breath. Having grown up in a restless family, that was always in motion, New York City was the one place in which I had been most grounded, or to use a phrase I just found in a critique of A la Recherche du temps perdu ; "vegetated".
It's been almost three decades of living within New York City's scale and sprawl, drive and energy. More than any where else, it was what had shaped me. I was back for meetings and not much else, not in this my dedicated state of rootlessness, but this morning, this return had a strange tincture. Was it nostalgia?
Submitted by Wayne on Wed, 2014-07-23 00:32.
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Submitted by Wayne on Sun, 2014-07-20 01:27.
Of all the new girls that spewed out of the frenzy of the Fall shows, it's Women's Vanessa Moody that stands as the #everything of the current model moment. From the benediction of the opening slots and exclusives at Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, Moody proved the political power of that Wang camp as a crucial model making machine.