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Nicolas Ghesquière

SCOOP DU JOUR: FILLING IN THE BLANKS ( A NEW Silhouette AT BALENCIAGA )

Cool girls of the world your arches rejoice ! Image via vogue.comCool girls of the world your arches rejoice ! Image via vogue.com

"Just when you thought you knew what the House Of ________________ stood for , its chief designer has decided to topple over those cliches. But will women want to be ...uhmmm ...brought down to earth?"

TI 08: 23:10

EAGERLY ANTICIPATING: SELF SERVICE #33

Maryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas GhesquièreMaryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière
Maryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas GhesquièreMaryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière
Maryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas GhesquièreMaryna Linchuk photographed by Ezra Petronio, issue n°33, unpublished. Leather dress by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière

Cuz its not glamour

THE END OF FASHION AS RESTRICTED INFORMATION

Everybody knows everything these daysEverybody knows everything these days

More than ever, there seems something dated in the existence of these people, publicists who glory in their task as guardians of precedence. Like the eunuchs of the Ming dynasty, they tend to forget their place as servants of the imperial luxury goods industry. And, like the eunuchs of the Forbidden City, they may wake up one day to find that those with real power — in this case, Bernard Arnault, Robert Polet, François Pinault — have noted that the bottom line is not being well served by lackeys with attitude.

Guy Trebay in The NY Times on fashion show publicists and their Marie Antoinette complex

BALENCIAGA SS 09: CONSISTENCY OF LINE WITH COMPLEXITY

Iselin Steiro makes a rare runway appearnce at Balenciaga SS 09; Image via Women Mgmt blogIselin Steiro makes a rare runway appearnce at Balenciaga SS 09; Image via Women Mgmt blog

BEYOND LUXURY: The 21 st Century Remix

The name alone must  sellThe name alone must sell

Is it me or has this been happening to you too? You absorb so much information daily, you start to forget where you read/saw/heard what. For instance, I know this week I read that sales at Gucci have been exploding,and that the company moved product past the 2 billion dollar mark. I remember reading that the new store on 5th Ave at Trump Tower was a sumptuous extravaganza of unmatched awe and spectacle with a stunning view of the avenue from all of it's floors. Most of all we were assured Frida Giannini knew what she was doing. She had feminized the brand. Made it warmer and more spontaneous and accessible. The message of the PR spin was, (and it was written this bluntly in the article)... “Tom who? “.
Now weigh all that information against the reviews the last Gucci show has garnered. The general temperature? Lukewarm, much of it on the order of “This Will Sell Well. Especially In Russia” In her diplomatic review of the show , Cathy Horyn in the NY Times made reference to Gildo Zegna, the chief executive of Zegna, as saying this week that 20 percent of his company’s sales now come from new markets such as Russia, India and Brazil with profit margins said to be higher than those of the “ established markets."
This then leads me to a thought that has been bugging me as a dedicated consumer of designer fashion. What is it that drives me to buy? The reviews of fashion critics? (In my case, no) . The packaging and PR done in the glossy fashion magazines (Somewhat, especially if the magazine is “renegade/independent” like Fantastic Man).

LIVE FROM HOTEL RAPHAEL

Hotel Raphael: Can you spot the Turner ?Hotel Raphael: Can you spot the Turner ?

Hotel Raphael on Avenue Klebler in Paris will be the official TI/Hiss Squad HQ for this season's shows precisely because it is located between the Grand Palais and Palais de Tokyo. But here are the 10 other reason's why we love it so.

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