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Steven Meisel

RECESS THIS! Campaigns FW 08

A legendary Jil Sander print by Craig McDeanA legendary Jil Sander print by Craig McDean

There has been a lively discussion around the recent Inez and Vinoodh post that raised very smart questions about the chances a new generation of photographers have in breaking into the campaign market. That discussion has led to a flurry of calls to TI and let's just say if there IS indeed a recession looming, brands are bracing themselves for it by taking no chances. And when we say brands, its almost as if you have to start thinking of the current photography establishment as brands in and of themselves.
Think Meisel Inc. Testino Unlimited. Sims Corp. One Hiss Squader actually mused to me yesterday over lunch that , "If I were a blue chip photographer and I saw trouble coming, I would totally be locking down jobs with those mass market companies. I mean when the money runs out people might be buying fewer alligator handbags but I don't think Target or The Gap is going to be bouncing checks anytime soon"
Will that conventional wisdom hold up? You'd be surprised as to what some of the bigger names in the biz are lensing...on the down low.

In the meantime Testino Unlimited is shooting an All-Testino issue of German Vogue right this minute, including a Top 10 New Models edit with a short-list so spot-on I almost want to leak it. Almost lol.

A Directional Gap

The most expensive girls in the most reasonable clothes. Very Gap!The most expensive girls in the most reasonable clothes. Very Gap!

REFERENCE LIBRARY: THE INCREDIBLE STYLINGS OF JASON FARRER

MIssy Rayder: PH: Meisel: Styling: Jason FarrerMIssy Rayder: PH: Meisel: Styling: Jason Farrer

I never thought I'd be reaching back to anything so recent as the work of stylist Jason Farrer as a reference, but here I am. I used to see JJ, as all his mates called him, around the clubs of NY and what I felt was a mixture of awe and envy because he was soooo NY. He wore sharkskin suits to hip-hop clubs and always had the best entourage. Jason Farrer's work was so clever in the way it absorbed all these very urban-Latino street elements and threw them up on the high wall of fashion. There was something of the NY graffiti master to his way of styling , which was to throw outfits together in a way that had a signature "tag" to it. Only JJ could drop it-just-like-that.

SCOOP DU JOUR:VOGUE ITALIA JAN 07 : GUINEVERE!

Guinevere:IMG: PH: Meisel: Vogue Italia Jan 08Guinevere:IMG: PH: Meisel: Vogue Italia Jan 08

There WAS a reason why the cover dropped so late. My Milan mole just texted me 2 secs ago to say he saw a bound copy of the mag with GUINEVERE on the cover. Waiting for the first look!...In other tales of world domination, Missy Rayder is now officially on the board of IMG.

REFERENCE LIBRARY:THE STEVEN MEISEL THESIS

The Most Recent Triumph: PH: Meisel Vogue Italia Dec 07The Most Recent Triumph: PH: Meisel Vogue Italia Dec 07

This is what the love of fashion can spawn. Our very devoted fashion contributer Max, has just outlined a veritable THESIS on directional fashion photographer Steven Meisel. Intense no? If Max does pull it off, this could well be a scholarly book sold in college bookstores worldwide. Make room Madonna!
The Imagist.

The Evolution of Oraine Barrett

Oraine Barrett./Major Model MgmtOraine Barrett./Major Model Mgmt

Everytime someone says "the next Tyson Beckford" I'm apt to roll my eyes. Beckford was a very unique moment where a visionary agent, a smart client and a multi-cultural zeitgest brewed a perfect booking storm.But looking at the slow build of Oraine Barrett's bookings over the past three years, TI senses a pattern building for this Jamaican school boy athlethe-turned-model. From Abercrombie and Fitch to amazing edits in Arena Homme + and September's Vogue Italia with Meisel, this young model is evolving very audaciously. It's only instinct but our model sixth sense is signalling an upcoming breaktrough moment for this male mannequin. Oraine is already looking very campaign ready in these new snaps Major's Jason Kanner sped over to us last night.

Reference Library: LEGENDARY Vogue EDITORIAL

Nadja Auermann and Kirsten McMenamy in US Vogue: Ph: MeiselNadja Auermann and Kirsten McMenamy in US Vogue: Ph: Meisel

That legendary grunge moment in fashion ! That grunge collection of Marc Jacob's for Perry Ellis that got him fired (and sent him on the road to Vuitton). That incredible 1992 Meisel shoot for US Vogue that counts as one of the most legendary editorials of all time. Here's Max's latest installment from his reference library.

The year was 1992. Kate Moss, Corrine Day, Juergen Teller, David Sims are all on their way up and are creating a new style of fashion out of London via The Face and ID. How will the gatekeepers of cool in NY react? For Marc Jacobs, the style of American bands like Pearl Jam and Nirvana was like a gift from heaven, because with the music, came a very specific look. Marc takes the flannel and the thermals, the vintage dresses worn with combat boots and turns it into a deluxe collection in silk and cashmere with the prices to match. Steven Meisel takes the super-glamorous supermodels Nadja and Naomi and Kirsten and strips them of all the usual make-up for a very dressed down look. The Old Guard in fashion nearly lose their minds but the kids love it. It is one of the boldest statements ever seen in a mainstream magazine and that's why we rank it right up there as one of the fabulous editorials ever!

The Independent Miss Meghan

Meghan Collison: Photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia Oct 07Meghan Collison: Photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia Oct 07

Our fave new model star is all over the stands of NY with her October cover of Vogue Italia. TI loves that this strong girl who reads so "edge" in person has been glossed up by Meisel to render one of the most glamorous mag covers of the year thus far. We Q+A'd the Supreme beauty back in August for Spur magazine and here's the abridged translation of what was Miss Meghan's first ever interview. My best memory about it was how completely unaffected she was as well as the incredible life force in Meghan's eyes. She's headed a looooong way from small city shopping malls is all we have to say.

Wayne Sterling:I love your haircut Meghan! It is so cool and perfect for you. Did Paul do it?

Meghan Collison : Nope. I've had this hair...you can look back at pictures when I was three years old...almost my whole life. The only thing that really changed is it just got longer and longer. I went through that "lets grow a bang phase" that all the girls did in grade six but my phase went on right into high school.

WS: Speaking of being a little girl, where did you grew up?

MC: I grew up in a place called Edmonton in Canada. Edmonton, Like the Edmonton Oilers..the hockey team. We have the biggest mall in the world there Its owned by the same people who own Mall Of America. Its huge. I love it though. I love shopping there.

WS: Which makes for a perfect segue, the legend is you were scouted in a shopping mall.

The Power Eye! The Stylists With The Influence

Stylists: The Interpreters Of Fashion: Rizzoli 2007Stylists: The Interpreters Of Fashion: Rizzoli 2007

The talk this week? Rachel Zoe's bold claim about possibly being more influential than Anna Wintour. The cabal is in a frenzy at this sacrilege. Its the best fashion sound byte since “We don't get out of bed for less than 10,000 a day” But given the high altitude Rachel now lives at (and the corresponding lack of oxygen) Rachel Zoe is entitled to be as megalomaniac as she wants to be. I mean maybe she means more influential in malls...or more influential with the 18 and unders. There is even a rumor in circulation that Zoe has first pull at Calvin. A rumor probably...possibly started by the Zoe camp. But it gets you thinking. Whose eyes, tastes, preferences inform the idea of what is fashion now? And how does the tastes and preferences (and talent) of these forces affect how fashionable women dress? . I spent my entire Saturday ringing up some kids in the trade to form an informal style council. Not only was Wintour with her fashion funds, speed dial to billionaire CEO's and Met Costume Balls PR machines in another universe of influence, the conclusion was there were easily 5 forces in the world of styling who could eat Zoe for lunch...and use her ribcage as toothpicks.

THE FIVE:
Grace Coddington:

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