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Proenza Schouler

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Early Warning Signal: Annely Bouma At Ulla Models

Current fashion kids do love her certain post-90's frisson.Current fashion kids do love her certain post-90's frisson.

Jack McCollough's Got Skills

Thakoon Panichgul, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at the CFDA after-party PH Alexis Dahan via purple-diary.comThakoon Panichgul, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at the CFDA after-party PH Alexis Dahan via purple-diary.com

LIYA KEBEDE & CHLOE SEVIGNY IN KALUP LINZY'S Proenza Schouler's Pitti W Woman Precollection

LIYA KEBEDE & CHLOE SEVIGNY IN KAYLUP LINZY'S  Proenza Schouler's Pitti W Woman PrecollectionLIYA KEBEDE & CHLOE SEVIGNY IN KAYLUP LINZY'S Proenza Schouler's Pitti W Woman Precollection

Voila some stills from artist Kalup Linzy's production for Proenza Schouler's Pre-Spring 2010 presentation. Veeeeery directional hair non?

The Personal And The Political

Tori Praver/IMG is very wanted because of being included in this edit in the new Pop  by Alasdair McLellanTori Praver/IMG is very wanted because of being included in this edit in the new Pop by Alasdair McLellan

WITHER THE YOUNG DESIGNER?

Alexander Wang must stand the test of his times! NY needs that. Image via alexanderwang.comAlexander Wang must stand the test of his times! NY needs that. Image via alexanderwang.com

The Girls Who Matter Now!

Kamila F/IMG: A girl most wanted in her too gorgeous polaroidKamila F/IMG: A girl most wanted in her too gorgeous polaroid

THE REALness of Rachel Clark

Rachel Clark: Supreme is super-glam for Louis Vuitton Cruise FW 07Rachel Clark: Supreme is super-glam for Louis Vuitton Cruise FW 07

My God! It's almost a year since I first met Rachel Clark and look how much she's grown! Last June I Q+A'd Ms Clark for my Spur/Japan magazine model column after hearing she was on set for Louis Vuitton Cruise FW07 with M+M and Ms Grand. I love me some Rachel Clark because she is the realest model I know right this minute. Here's the abridged transcript that's the proof:

Rachel Clark first surfaced on our model-watching radar while we were visiting Miami in December 2006. Her local booker dragged the unwilling 18 year old out for an impromptu meet and greet. "She's going to be huge!" he boasted and scanning Rachel quickly you could see that all the raw materials were there...the long clean body line good for runway and the angular, beautiful face that could be painted into anything you want it to be.

But there was a hitch. It was obvious that Rachel hated the entire proposition of fashion. In her tank-top, cut-off shorts and flip-flops she was so heedless to high fashion that it seemed unlikely she would catch on in a world where personal style was a dividing mark between working and non-working models. With her nonchalant stroll, her lazy way with a cigarette and her haste to run off to play video games with her beach pals, she seemed more like an escapee from a late period Larry Clark film (think "Bully" ) than a budding super-model

CAN NEW YORK GET ITS GROOVE BACK?

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week S/S 08Mercedes Benz Fashion Week S/S 08

While trawling the agencies all week (its not as seedy as it sounds) to scan the scene, TI picked up on a strange frequency. Apart from a faint enthusiasm as to what referential/vintage road Marc might go down next, there is not, in general, a sense of excitement at the modeling agencies regarding the upcoming shows. Of course there is the customary dread as to the 17 non-stop days of booking between now and the end of the NY shows. There is the bracing for the daily abuse that is sure to come from stressed out, harried casting directors screaming “What do you mean Calvin has her exclusive? How about if I don't book a single one of your models then?” And then there are the endless after-parties that one is obliged to trot your prize girls around as if NY had become one massive pony show. So make that 17 non-stop 17 hour days. And the windfall from all that? Obscure designers who pay in trade, offering unwanted clothes to the models in lieu of cash. An off-skelter schedule toe-jammed with shows which means major conflicts every day. Clients switching around casting directors with reckless abandon. Casting directors taking shows that pay a grand total of $4,000. And the compensation to the models is still “trade” which means said casting director is expected to solicit top girls for next to nothing while being paid next to nothing. It is not as glamorous a living as you'd hope to think.

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