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ON EXCLUSIVES, EXCUSES AND RECLUSES.

Toni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that countsToni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that counts

Instant sensation Toni Garrn opens AND closes Calvin Klein SS 2008.

On Your Marcs !

Marc by Marc Bus campaignMarc by Marc Bus campaign

TI's been gathering intelligence on the 600 pound gorilla of NY Fashion Week, tommorow night's Marc Jacobs. The celebrity jammed front row, the peripheral vision b*tch scan by competing fashionistas, the who's who of who's new in models and a backstage that is the ultimate NY VIP room. With almost 60 spots lined up, girls who fail to book Big Marc, or for that matter Little Marc should really get ready to flee for Milan, under the pretense of a Prada exclusive. And don't bother hustling Marc himself for a front row perch. He's leaving all that up to Robert, absolving himself of any responsibility for that piece of politics.
Then there is the three hour dress rehersal tonight (9-midnight), cause the catwalk that's complicated, as well as the requisite 3am fitting sessions.And where will Marc go after last season's stroll through retro-Deco. Back to the future we sense. But whose future? Pierre Cardin future? Mugler/Montana future? A plastic fantastic fanatsia? We'll just have to wait another 12...0r 13..0r 14 hours no?
The shoes at Marc btw are also sick sick sick. Very looking-one-size-too-small in a kinda of teenaged tranny tradition. But the dye's not set yet, (though there was another Manic Panic green/purple/pink hair experiment at baby Marc a few days back.) Maybe this conceit will stick. Maybe it won't. And the boys probably won't be coming out in the girl's looks afterall. But that would have given the kids something to talk about. Cue Magnetic Fields "When My Boy Walks Down The Street" and fade!

Viva V Hollywood

Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49

Its a big big Hollywood scoop for the biggest issue of V ever. V49 boasts Brad Pitt riding its new cover in high style lensed by Mario Testino. Favorite fashion story? Mert n Marcus beautifully pixilated "Scents Of The Future" edit. Issue review later today!

Ned Ambler: A Great American Eye

Jean and Amandaray Ph. Ned AmblerJean and Amandaray Ph. Ned Ambler

It is just like five years ago when every ambitious young thing landing in NY felt compelled to declare themselves a stylist. And five years before that a DJ or a "publicist" if not the ungodly hybrid of "publicist to DJ's" . I really ought not to talk but now the new thing in NY is to be a casting director with fantastic new people like Daniel Peddle, Jessica Weinstein and Julia Semonova locking it down with some stronger and stronger clients each season.
But in the same way that you have to fall silent at the mention of Judy Blame in the field of styling, the name Ned Ambler is just iconic when it comes to the proposition of casting. In the 90's his was the eye that resulted in club kids like Jenny Talia being scraped off the sidewalks of Avenue A and deposited in a flourescent white photo-studio for CK Jeans. How great it was in the mid-90's to have a city bus dock beside you and see all the kids from the clubs ( Lois Samuels, Richard Elms, Jenny Shimuzu) profiling for CK 1. Ambler was indefatiguable in his hunt for strong, real, immediate faces , fresh off the streets . Everyone from Levi's to Versace, Jil Sander, Valentino, and Dolce & Gabbana harnessed Ambler's brave and open eye to create a great moment in fashion. Magazines like Vogue, Italian Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Interview, Details, and The Face got a dose of realness via his intervention.

The Social Climber's Guide to NY: Thursday Night Special

Purple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow bookPurple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow book

True quote of the day:
"With fashion, a lot of people get it but how many can give it?"

The mobs may have been screaming for Carrie Underwood, Jessica Alba and Nicole Ritchie at Fashion Rocks but a clique of cool kids kept it really real on Grand Street as 3 gallaries had simultaneous openings. Marilena Borgna's "Rock n Roll Diaries" launch at the Dactyl Foundation got premium young fashion points . Probably because of Marilena's past stint as casting director of sorts for Vogue Italia, many a model was there. The photographs (which were incidental to the kids assembled) were actually color xeroxes taped to the wall. Very teenaged bedroom reverie. There were two A-list Italian Vogue cover girls in the house (Adina + DJ Agyness jacking the decks with co-hort Jacky)
Kate Bosworth toy boy James Rousseau was there. Evening's host Scott Lipps was present hob nobbing with lots of mister hipsters. I bet a few of them were massive rock stars of the ARCKID ilk. Where, oh where does he find the energy? Incroyable! My co-hort Betty Sze was snapping away... so this evidence you'll see on MDC later today.

Agyness Deyn: Incredibly Big In Japan

Agyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur JapanAgyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur Japan

Early Warning System: Sandra Backlund

Sandra Backlund: Blank Page Collection. Model Haidy MottusSandra Backlund: Blank Page Collection. Model Haidy Mottus

There's a current thought circulating in the image trade which holds that we're seeing the decentralization of the traditional fashion loop of NY/Lon/Milan/Paris. The idea is that the next wave of directional design talent is going to come from unexpected places but move through the mainstream of that 4 city grid with a kind of amped up digital speed. In other words, new talent is coming to the cities fully armed with a highly articulated product. If so the blogsphere has become a space of its own for the discovery and stealth marketing of freshly emergent designers. Take for instance the case of the brilliant young knitwear designer Sandra Backlund.

Sandra Backlund: Diamond Cut Diamond Collection. Model Carolina KSandra Backlund: Diamond Cut Diamond Collection. Model Carolina K

Early Warning System: The Steidl/7L Chapter

Babeth: Published by 7L. Coming soon!Babeth: Published by 7L. Coming soon!
Two major books looming from 7 L and Steidl (for our money, the best makers of fashion books on the planet, right now). The first: current Numero editor and Jill magazine legend Babeth Dijan has her own album coming. Includes all the big hitters such as Mert Alas & Marcus Pigott, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Nathaniel Goldberg, Karl Lagerfeld, Peter Lindbergh, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Guido Mocafico, Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello, Liz Collins, Solve Sundbo, Camilla Akrans, Greg Kadel, Dusan Rejlin, Ellen von Unwerth, Paolo Roversi. And that makes it a must for the reference library of every young fashion-head looking for an education.

Metamorphoses Of An American: Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Steidl. Coming soon.Metamorphoses Of An American: Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Steidl. Coming soon.

Kinee's Awesome Only Girl Edit : Another Magazine Winter 2007

Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07 Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07 Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07Kinee Ph. Josh Olins : Another Magazine Winter 07

The Social Climber's Guide To NY Fashion Week

Damien Hirst's $100 mil Man vs Ezra Pound's High MindDamien Hirst's $100 mil Man vs Ezra Pound's High Mind

Have you been having a good time with the massive ...errr...ad buy behind Djimon Honsou's Calvin Klein underwear ad ? On every phone booth, and on every corner in NY the ubiquitous Djimon looms just in time for the 25th anniversary of Calvin Klein underwear. It was a very persistent in-house casting director for Calvin that fought like her life depended on it , who made this all happen. If you want to measure person against picture then inflitrate Calvin klein HQ (205 W 39th St) on Sept 5 circa 9.00pm. Oh and Hilary Swank's co-hosting. Again, cocktails are par for the course but Calvin Inc hopes to retain its snob appeal with its tightly edited dinner party at The Gramercy's Wakliya. But you already have your invite.

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