"Though this issue’s title appears in quotation marks, the intention is not to be ironic, or to suggest skepticism. Rather, the quotes allude to image quotation and reference, which are part and parcel of any creative act but are essential to the world of fashion. “In today’s professional climate . . . you’re only as good as your references,” guest editors Inez & Vinoodh note in their introduction to a portfolio of images by fashion’s most iconic and imitated photographers. Referencing is delicate, requiring thoughtful handling to avoid crossing the line into copying. Curator Charlotte Cotton remarks in her contribution that fashion photography’s often transparent use of references may be one reason why the genre is criticized from other corners. But in the end what matters is how a reference is used: when adequately transformed, you may sense a quotation but won’t recognize its source.
Inez and Vinoodh
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And so it begins. Gaga's taking back of the cultural moment. In Pop, Cultural Moments are so fleeting these day, maybe we should think of them more as Cultural Seconds. Given our cultural blip-sphere, where 1st week sales might be as good as it gets, you kind of have to admire the gifted megalomaniacs of our day who try to hew great moments …mass movements so to speak…out of a pop market atomized into millions of niche markets.
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WS: I guess you were into fashion growing up