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Gucci Pre-Fall 2017 Campaign

Creative direction and styling: Alessandro Michele

SIlent Flashes Forward

Ria by Alexandra Utzmann for CR Fashion Book @riasalvation @alexandrautzmann @crfashionbookRia by Alexandra Utzmann for CR Fashion Book @riasalvation @alexandrautzmann @crfashionbook

If someone were to create a board game around the idea of 'making the model', the pathways and the rule set would be quite easy to map out. A wide eyed nubie…in a digital sheet, sped to the great model breakers... and then…quick... the snap up to the exclusives and coveted slots, hopefully catching the eye of the power designers, stylists, photographers and booking editors that keep fashion in a state of maximum relevancy.

The equivalent to that model making process, is the cycles in which the market looks for a management company that reflects an idea or an ideal that keeps the booking game from becoming too settled around the same agencies always. Every few seasons tastemakers hunt for an agency that introduces a fresh new angle on model tastes.That's fashion, all flux. The tides must shift... just because.

In that regard, through a build up of bookings at Interview, 032c, CR Fashion Book and iD, not to mention the recent Resort and Couture runways for Calvin, Altazarra, Gucci, Vuitton, Dior and Valentino, Silent NY which has been flashing an interesting signal in recent months as the hot new shop for directional clients to cull cool new faces.

Silent's President, Peter Fitzpatrick has always been one of my favorite managers to stop in for a lunch or breakfast whenever I'm in New York. I would put good money down that he's a natural born chess player. In talking about the business with him, I always sense a very good critical intelligence at play…gathering as much information as it trades, even as it is filtering out to the bigger picture of what modeling could mean in a digital era. Between quantifiable metrics and qualified tastes, there are always new possibilities waiting to be forged . The 6 years of dedicated work at Silent has more than acclimatized him to the subtle nuances of management and I've always wondered how a super-smart Harvard grad such as Peter ended up at the non-stop carnival that is the modeling industry. Here's what he divulged.


Tom Ford FW:15 : The sleek 60's silhouette of it, Op Art dinner jackets, that tight little shearling.Tom Ford FW 15 : The sleek 60's silhouette of it, Op Art dinner jackets, that tight little shearling.

Jorge Luis Borges has nothing to do with contemporary menswear (though you never know, these days, which supremely ironic designer is going to dress an army of pretty boys in the author's signature sagging suits). Yet Borges once said something which is certainly true for fashion shows in this moment.

The Argentine writer proposed the idea that it is very possible that everything in the universe has already happened and we are nothing but on going echoes of that initial occurrence.

Looking at the calvacade of the Fall/Winter 2015 Men's shows with their assembly line precision amplified by their serial march of beautiful boys and girls, what a dedicated follower of fashion experienced was beyond deja vu. It was a great sense of a loop.


The world's most glamorous art maven, Dasha Zhukova . Ph Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue ParisThe world's most glamorous art maven, Dasha Zhukova . Ph Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue Paris

Have you caught that whisper of a hiss that suggests that post-Pop, the world's most glamorous art maven, Dasha Zhukova, is summoning her very own culture mag ?


Certain brands might be pulling back to a one girl ideal but Gucci ain't one of them.

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Taste is a dictatorship.


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