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ON RACE AND RUNWAY RELEVANCE

One + Saint's massive New York breakout star, Kai Newman at Calvin Klein SS14.One + Saint's massive New York breakout star, Kai Newman at Calvin Klein SS14.

A great story behind the story that was the freshly concluded SS14 session of #NYFW was the response posted to the call to arms issued by Bethann Hardison and Iman in Eric Wilson's Aug 7th article in the NY Times. Titled "Fashion's Blind Spot", it was a redux of the brouhaha that exploded 5 years ago on the subject of black models in fashion, with the customary shifting of responsibility where clients blamed the agencies, and the agencies damned the clients for imposing a "quota" system on the use of "models of color".

What was new and what made the issue freshly relevant was Iman's use of the "B" word...as in boycott. “It feels to me like the times need a real hard line drawn like in the 1960s, by saying if you don’t use black models, then we boycott. If you engage the social media, trust me, it will hurt them in their pockets. If you take it out there, they will feel the uproar...” , Iman passionately stated in the article.

TAIT MODERN

Thomas Tait SS 12 PH:  Ioulex for the NY TImes T Magazine Blog Nov 2011Thomas Tait SS 12 PH: Ioulex for the NY TImes T Magazine Blog Nov 2011

Keeping track of all those emerging designers swarming around these days sure is tough.

WHY HAS THERE BEEN NO BLACK MALE "SUPERMODEL" SINCE TYSON BECKFORD? Research Notes .

Tyson Beckford at the height of his undeniable  beautyTyson Beckford at the height of his undeniable beauty

My colleague at MDC , Betty Sze uploaded a post on OTM titled, "Change Begins Today" which contrasted the inaugration of Barack Obama as the President Of The United States with the lack of color on the Milan FW 09 men's runways (as per a Guy Trebay article in the NY Times). The following day I was at a shoot for frillr.com with an unsigned black male model. The subject of why there has been no black male super-star since Tyson Beckford came up. I was asked why did I think that was . I found myself stumped. Not because I didn't have a point of view on the subject but more truthfully, because I had several complicated and conflicting ideas about the issue. A whole frenzy of questions came to mind.

THE WORLD GONE MODERN

Ger: Boss Models: Photographed by Shameer Khan . Still from  frillr.com's   red hot  video seriesGer: Boss Models: Photographed by Shameer Khan . Still from frillr.com's red hot video series

BILL CUNNINGHAM GETS INTO IT!

Pure NY street flavourPure NY street flavour

You have to pop over to the NY Times Style section and listen to Mr Cunningham's hilarious audio commentary on the ever dropping pants on the black and Latino kids of NY. TI finds it criminal that there's not a "Collected Works" of Cunningham's street images. They are pure NY history!

REFERENCE LIBRARY: THE BUFFALO SOLDIERS PT 1: JUDY BLAME

Judy Blame was a genius of unorthodox stylingJudy Blame was a genius of unorthodox styling

"I wanted a lady name because everyone changed their name to one of the same sex, so I thought I'd confuse people. Judy was a nickname given to me by a friend, and Blame just sprang to mind one day. It sounds like a trashy b-movie actress from the 50's - a bleached blonde tart who only made one film and never got anywhere - I like that"
Judy Blame

The Image That Sells

Are you buying it? Kinee/NY Models as the apotheosis of chic. Marcus Hill/Major as the embodiment of...you know.Are you buying it? Kinee/NY Models as the apotheosis of chic. Marcus Hill/Major as the embodiment of...you know.

ON EXCLUSIVES, EXCUSES AND RECLUSES.

Toni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that countsToni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that counts

Instant sensation Toni Garrn opens AND closes Calvin Klein SS 2008.

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