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ON EXCLUSIVES, EXCUSES AND RECLUSES.

Toni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that countsToni/Women: The Only Calvin Klein SS 08 exclusive that counts

Instant sensation Toni Garrn opens AND closes Calvin Klein SS 2008.

CURRENT LISTENING: BLACK KIDS

Black Kids Meets Last Years Model. Ha ha!Black Kids Meets Last Years Model. Ha ha!

Ladies and gentlemen, the culture of music blogs has spun a new star. Hailing from Jacksonville Florida (not as you think from the sound, Glasgow in the mid 80's) meet Black Kids . Via blogs like cable and tweed, the gospel has spread across the earth with NME recently converting to the cause. The lead singer has a fantastic curly Afro, a big "My Bloody Valentines" vocal inflection and wicked tastes in graphic design. Which means they'll be massive with imagists. And they're not yet signed to a label! Check em out on myspace while we really get into their flyer design!

On Your Marcs !

Marc by Marc Bus campaignMarc by Marc Bus campaign

TI's been gathering intelligence on the 600 pound gorilla of NY Fashion Week, tommorow night's Marc Jacobs. The celebrity jammed front row, the peripheral vision b*tch scan by competing fashionistas, the who's who of who's new in models and a backstage that is the ultimate NY VIP room. With almost 60 spots lined up, girls who fail to book Big Marc, or for that matter Little Marc should really get ready to flee for Milan, under the pretense of a Prada exclusive. And don't bother hustling Marc himself for a front row perch. He's leaving all that up to Robert, absolving himself of any responsibility for that piece of politics.
Then there is the three hour dress rehersal tonight (9-midnight), cause the catwalk that's complicated, as well as the requisite 3am fitting sessions.And where will Marc go after last season's stroll through retro-Deco. Back to the future we sense. But whose future? Pierre Cardin future? Mugler/Montana future? A plastic fantastic fanatsia? We'll just have to wait another 12...0r 13..0r 14 hours no?
The shoes at Marc btw are also sick sick sick. Very looking-one-size-too-small in a kinda of teenaged tranny tradition. But the dye's not set yet, (though there was another Manic Panic green/purple/pink hair experiment at baby Marc a few days back.) Maybe this conceit will stick. Maybe it won't. And the boys probably won't be coming out in the girl's looks afterall. But that would have given the kids something to talk about. Cue Magnetic Fields "When My Boy Walks Down The Street" and fade!

CURRENT LISTENING: Magnetic Fields "69 Love Songs"

Magnetic Fields: 69 Love SongsMagnetic Fields: 69 Love Songs

For us, it is one of the greatest albums of modern times. Magnetic Field's "69 Love Songs" featuring the twisted, bitter wit of songwriter Stephin Merritt is in heavy rotation right now, probably for all the wrong reasons. Admittedly 69 bizzare songs stretched over 3 volumes, that hopskotch from style to style with no particular logic might be a bit hard to take in one sitting. Sometimes Merritt's too clever for his own good, but at least he knows it. Released in 1999 it includes the genius track "Underwear". Been waiting for it to rock the right runway. If that song doesn't make you laugh during this miserable, muggy NY Fashion Week, then you've probably been interning at Jil Stuart too long . No music is more 90's NY cool than this glorious mess. I-tune it if you think I lie.

Viva V Hollywood

Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49Brad Pitt Ph by Testino for V 49

Its a big big Hollywood scoop for the biggest issue of V ever. V49 boasts Brad Pitt riding its new cover in high style lensed by Mario Testino. Favorite fashion story? Mert n Marcus beautifully pixilated "Scents Of The Future" edit. Issue review later today!

Ned Ambler: A Great American Eye

Jean and Amandaray Ph. Ned AmblerJean and Amandaray Ph. Ned Ambler

It is just like five years ago when every ambitious young thing landing in NY felt compelled to declare themselves a stylist. And five years before that a DJ or a "publicist" if not the ungodly hybrid of "publicist to DJ's" . I really ought not to talk but now the new thing in NY is to be a casting director with fantastic new people like Daniel Peddle, Jessica Weinstein and Julia Semonova locking it down with some stronger and stronger clients each season.
But in the same way that you have to fall silent at the mention of Judy Blame in the field of styling, the name Ned Ambler is just iconic when it comes to the proposition of casting. In the 90's his was the eye that resulted in club kids like Jenny Talia being scraped off the sidewalks of Avenue A and deposited in a flourescent white photo-studio for CK Jeans. How great it was in the mid-90's to have a city bus dock beside you and see all the kids from the clubs ( Lois Samuels, Richard Elms, Jenny Shimuzu) profiling for CK 1. Ambler was indefatiguable in his hunt for strong, real, immediate faces , fresh off the streets . Everyone from Levi's to Versace, Jil Sander, Valentino, and Dolce & Gabbana harnessed Ambler's brave and open eye to create a great moment in fashion. Magazines like Vogue, Italian Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Interview, Details, and The Face got a dose of realness via his intervention.

The Social Climber's Guide to NY: Thursday Night Special

Purple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow bookPurple # 8 Starring Andre Ph. Terry Richardson b/w ThE Dash Snow book

True quote of the day:
"With fashion, a lot of people get it but how many can give it?"

The mobs may have been screaming for Carrie Underwood, Jessica Alba and Nicole Ritchie at Fashion Rocks but a clique of cool kids kept it really real on Grand Street as 3 gallaries had simultaneous openings. Marilena Borgna's "Rock n Roll Diaries" launch at the Dactyl Foundation got premium young fashion points . Probably because of Marilena's past stint as casting director of sorts for Vogue Italia, many a model was there. The photographs (which were incidental to the kids assembled) were actually color xeroxes taped to the wall. Very teenaged bedroom reverie. There were two A-list Italian Vogue cover girls in the house (Adina + DJ Agyness jacking the decks with co-hort Jacky)
Kate Bosworth toy boy James Rousseau was there. Evening's host Scott Lipps was present hob nobbing with lots of mister hipsters. I bet a few of them were massive rock stars of the ARCKID ilk. Where, oh where does he find the energy? Incroyable! My co-hort Betty Sze was snapping away... so this evidence you'll see on MDC later today.

Burning Bright In The Forests Of The Night

Tyger Tyson. 1998: Ph. Jayson KeelingTyger Tyson. 1998: Ph. Jayson Keeling

I love large format photographs and ended up buying one today. I'm not a groupie. I've just always adored this 8 X 10 polaroid of the young Tyger Tyson, at the start of his career before he became Tyger Inc. The self-protective gesture of his hands, the fire in his eyes (is that pride or anger ?) and the red on red tonality is what makes this photograph memorable for me. That William Blake poem loops in my mind everytime I see it.

Log On To Mogollon

Mogollon 2007 Promo LogoMogollon 2007 Promo Logo

What or who could possibly be next in the super-sped up world of design and art direction? Putting a vote in for the Brooklyn based design/art direction/motion graphics/internet radio team of Mogollon comprised of Francisco Lopez and Monica Brand. Minimal they're not but that's important because as much as we sense the chill of a retro-minimalism brewing in the image trade, the curling excesses that computer assisted design can give you is an important counter-balance. Their CV is very Absolut Vodka, Le Book, PS/1 Moma as well as Tokion (where we discovered them) and Matador Records. The style is versatile and funny and quirky and well worth tracking to see if fashion clients bite. And wouldn't you know, they're already slinging prints, T-shirts and fonts. Viva ambition.

Agyness Deyn: Incredibly Big In Japan

Agyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur JapanAgyness Deyn Ph. Dan Martensen for Spur Japan

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