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TI Shout Out: Earsnot

Ace Boon Kunle: A/K/A  EarsnotAce Boon Kunle: A/K/A Earsnot

Regular readers of TI have probably picked up on our fetish for NY cult figures: the Teri's of the 80's, the Jenny's of the 90's and now our new Zeroes fixation, graf master Earsnot. Leader of the immortal Irak crew, openly gay downtown enfant terrible, scene stealing star of the cult film "Infamy", Mr Earsnot is a latter day icon to the arbiters of NY cool. And as is the way of life these days the Irak posse (Dash Snow was an early member) also has a clothing line and now offers its services as fashion and lifestyle consultants. How we would love to see Earsnot with folded arms at a corporate conference table. You have to wonder what Mr C.E.O would make of the legendary Earsnot tattoo featuring an attractive Hussein Saddam with a bulge in his pants. Paging Harmony Korine white courtesy telephone please.

Earsnot and friends amuse themselves terribly: Polaroid: Dash SnowEarsnot and friends amuse themselves terribly: Polaroid: Dash Snow

Early Warning Signal: Rad Hourani

Rad Hourani by Rad HouraniRad Hourani by Rad Hourani

"I STARTED IMAGINING CLOTHES THE SAME WAY I STARTED CREATING IMAGES:
WITH A SENSE OF CURIOSITY AND INNOCENCE DRIVEN BY MY NO-BACKGROUND
BACKGROUND. NO SCHOOL. NO TEACHERS. NO TELLY. NO BOUNDARIES. NO FORMATTING.
I LIKE THE IDEA OF A WORLD THAT WE COULD LIVE AND SHAPE BY OURSELVES, ONLY BY OBSERVING.
EACH OUR OWN. MY CLOTHES HAVE ERUPTED FROM THIS WORLD OF MINE. THEY ARE ASEXUAL, ASEASONAL,
THEY COME FROM NO PLACE, NO TIME, NO TRADITION, YET THEY COULD BE HOME ANYWHERE, ANYTIME.
THEY EXUDE A SENSE OF DISCREET CHIC, THE ESSENCE OF TIMELESS STYLE, DRAWN ON A MONOCHROMATIC
AND GRAPHICAL CANVAS. PALETTE OF BLACKS, TOUCHES OF PURE WHITES AND INTENSE REDS. SOPHISTICATED
MODERN CLASSICS FOR ANTI-CONFORMIST INDIVIDUALS."

Identity TextIdentity Text

Tyler Brule Strikes Again

Fashion Edit from The Monocle. Ph:Akio HasewagaFashion Edit from The Monocle. Ph:Akio Hasewaga

You grew up on Wallpaper though you were convinced Tyler Brule was a nom de plume.

Mad Americans

Mad Americans: Tom Browne and Marc Jacobs SS08 at style.comMad Americans: Tom Browne and Marc Jacobs SS08 at style.com

I think upon seeing a designer's collection, whether at a preview, on the runway or in re-see, you should walk out , shut your mouth, go home and think really carefully about what you have seen before saying a thing. Because the powerful collections will stay in your mind, imprinted so to speak , while the bad ones will mercifully evaporate, having had no impact on you visually or emotionally.
Do you buy it? That's the obvious question, as obvious and vulgar as “Will it sell?” But did you buy the collection as being honest and felt and compelling. Only two collections after the long calvacade of two weeks of NY shows and presentations linger. One was for men, the other for women. You can guess them before I announce them: Tom Browne and Marc Jacobs. Not very original choices but really, think about any other designers who went there and put out a collection that was personal and committed and visually challenging.
That is not to say they were good collections. Or bad. What those collections did however was to take the consistent and central ideas of these designers and push them until they came apart. And for all the tut-tutting about their "crypto-European" pretentiousness these two collections were beautifully American in their peculiar and mad way.

Ah Helmut! We Hardly Knew You.

Helmut Lang Fragrances Ad IconographyHelmut Lang Fragrances Ad Iconography

It has been a very Proustian weekend, one about nostalgia and the realization that moments that you lived through with complete frivolity, were actually powerful turning points in your life. And now these moments are lost forever, except for maybe the memory of a smell. The time that is haunting me is the late 90's and the scent? Helmut Lang. In 2000, just at the time the tides were turning against them, the Helmut Lang company introduced a line of fragrances, starting with the unisex duo Eau de Cologne and Eau de Parfum created by perfumer Maurice Roucel and then shortly afterwards Cuiron composed by Françoise Caron. Like Lang's clothes Eau de Cologne was clean and simple yet lush and sexual at the same time. It was sweet and powdery enough for women with a strong base of amber and almond, so much so that some cultists were comparing it to the long lost Belle Epoque masterpiece, Jicky. But like a classic fougère, (the fresh citrus, the herbal lavender) it was complex too with touches of oakmoss and coumarin so that it perfectly suited a man. Especially a man in a suit. Its as if Roucel has created a masterpiece of musk .

The House Of Jansen

The Dining Room Of Chateau Solevig from Jansen: Acanthus PressThe Dining Room Of Chateau Solevig from Jansen: Acanthus Press

Maison Jansen was just about the most haute of Paris based decorating housing in the 20th century with a client list that ranged from the Duke and Duchess Of Windsor to the President and Mrs. John F Kennedy to the Shah of Iran. And obviously if you were a client of theirs, your decorating budget tended to be on the far end of the no-limit scale with awe inducing spectacle a key ideal for your interiors. So what's modern or relevant about that? The work of Gaston Schwartz who became the President of Jansen in1928 is . He's the one responsible for the decoration of that eccentric concept: a modern country house reveling in Arte Moderne glamour.

The house in question, Chateau Solveig in Switzerland looms incongrously in Jansen's oevure in that it departs radically from the firm's solidly traditional aesthetic. Chateau Solevig's interior is a beautifully contained exploration of what was then modern, played out in decadently luxurious materials. There was tons of mirrored glass veneering, a dramatic foyer in matching bronze panels and a three story central staircase of white marble with hand railings and balusters of clear crystal.

March In The Name Of Art

Voloptuous Horror In Full EffectVoloptuous Horror In Full Effect

They Became Instant Classics

Chiffre Rouge A0 Series: Dior HommeChiffre Rouge A0 Series: Dior Homme

Of all the very good products Hedi Slimane left behind at Dior Homme, our favorite will always be the Chiffre Rouge A0 watch line. It is inspiring us to be completists and get them all, before it is too late.

The one's with the quarter scatter of diamonds are especially hot, no? Betting the house that 10 years from now these rigorously thought out, "sportif" yet refined timepieces will rank as modern classics. Ranking...hmmm now there's an idea.

Supreme Serendipity

Pilar  from the Supreme SS08 showpackage as seen exclusively at MDCPilar from the Supreme SS08 showpackage as seen exclusively at MDC

I spent much of the morning of August 23rd circling the Soho/Chinatown district that surrounded the Women/Supreme offices, intent on being the first client to nab the Supreme show package. I was literally sitting in La Esquina, downstairs when I got the text that the damn thing had finally arrived. When I got to Paul Rowland's office, the scale of the production left me gobsmacked. An army of assistants were compiling these massive cards into huge black photographer's boxes, neatly wrapping the whole proposition with a black grosgain ribbon. "Now this is what you called boutique," I thought. I fled like a thief to the MDC offices to make sure that package got a priority scanning and uploading!
Sure enough, next day, the phone rings and its a symphony of dismissal and sniping. "Unnecassary" "pretentious" "over-done" were some of the more polite bleating that went one. But I love excess as much as I love discipline and was moved as to how commited and also how mad the whole production Paul had wrought, really was.

Sex Sells Art!

Sex In The City: Sept 15th opening . 6-9pm  Dumbo Art CenterSex In The City: Sept 15th opening . 6-9pm Dumbo Art Center

Because art with sex always clears TI's calender: The Sex In The City group show. Curated by Dean Daderko and Marina Adams. September 15-December 2, 2007
Opening Reception: Saturday, September 15th, 6-9 PM

Dumbo Art Center
30 Washington Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
Tel. 718-694-0831

Voila a contextualization of the show from one of its curators Dean Daderko :

In an age dominated by digital connectivity and networking, Dean Daderko and Marina Adams present an exhibition that addresses our most fundamental human connection activity: sex. “The City” of the title is New York, or Montreal, or San Antonio - anywhere you are, the locus of connection and community. And with its potential for sensual potency, it is no surprise that Sex in the City is also a celebration of painting and the myriad forms with which it tangles.

Dean Daderko writes: "Sex in the City was born when Marina Adams approached me and asked me to collaborate with her to make an exhibition. I remember her saying “I already have a title” and as soon as the words came out of her mouth, I was hooked. I couldn’t say no. Rather than narrowing our options, we chose to cast a broad net inflected with the specific, personal grain of sexuality. Loose framework. So many ways to say “yes.”

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