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Reference Library: The Editorial That Changed Everything !

Kate Moss in The Face Photographed by Corinne DayKate Moss in The Face Photographed by Corinne Day

Ladies and gentlemen, the latest Reference Library from contributer Max regarding Kate Moss' seminal cover of The Face that launched the grunge/anti-model/ultra-realness school of 90's fashion.

Current Reading:Nancy Cunard: Heiress, Muse, Political Idealist: Columbia University Press by Lois Gordon

Nancy Cunard:Heiress, Muse, Political Idealist: Lois Gordon: Columbia PressNancy Cunard:Heiress, Muse, Political Idealist: Lois Gordon: Columbia Press

Yes I confess, TI is a bit of a Nancy Cunard cultist. As much as she would probably have hated the idea, Madame Cunard keeps bobbing up as a reference point in the fashion trade . As recently as two years ago, Ralph Lauren of all people used her as a touchstone in his FW 05 campaign and both Vogue Italia and L'Uomo Vogue have been known to invoke her as an icon.

I love her literary biography "These Were The Hours", about her years as a publisher and today I'm locked in the house with Lois Gordon's masterful new biography on NC. Fluid, detailed and a little worshipful (even I have to admit Nancy's poetry was NOT the kismet), Gordon's overview of Cunard's life is a must buy nonetheless. It is chockfull of brilliant tid bits, like King George changing the family name of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha to "Windsor" during the anti-Hun frenzy of WW1, as well as great stories of Nancy's laison with the original Imagist, Ezra Pound.

That's just for starters. Cunard tallied with modernist literary icons like T.S Eliot and Wyndham Lewis. The summary at the American Library Review says it all. "Scandalous, gifted, and, in her own tormented way, heroic, Cunard blazed brightly at the epicenter of a brutal yet creative epoch." I love this woman. If she had had a great-grandaughter I'd have hunted her down with a marriage proposal. It would have kept the family tradition going, no?

Let The Children Play

The sculpted baldie fade isThe sculpted fade is back !

Let the children play
Let them have their way

Ellos tienen que jugar
Ellos tienen que jugar

Let the children play
Lyrics from Santana:

Know what I love most about this Myspace generation of kids? The mass cultural narcissism of picking up a cameraphone or a digital camera and posting an image of yourself, right there in the bloom of your youth. It is a really brilliant moment for self-portraiture . They're not waiting for anybody mainstream to justify their style. The kids are doing IT for themselves. I love that the urban digital kids are creating this incredible document of their hairstyles and tattoos and mad little styling ideas with bandanas and sunglasses and 80's vintage looks . When the Zeroes are done I think its going to be an incredible database. For the first time we'll be able to look back on a youth culture the way that youth culture saw itself. It is sort of like Jamel Shabazz's "Back In The Day" but via an electronic medium by the subjects themselves. I love too that the NY digital kids have come up with a look that flies in the face of hip-hop convention. Yes thug style still persists with the white T's and baggy Levi's and fresh tan Tims but on the streets of deep Brooklyn radical kids are rocking skintight blue cordorouys, with these candy colored basketball kicks and these brightly coloured tight t-shirts.

Current Listening: Digitalism:Pogo

Digitalism: IdealismDigitalism: Idealism

TI is deeply in love with Digitalism right this min. The "Pogo" track with its "something in the air" chorus has been banging on the Boses as TI goes from airport to airport. "Idealistic" is the song every DJ has been killing at every damn Fash Week bash but the fresh remixes of this anthem (especially the "Who Made Who Reinterpretation" and "Hystero ReBrand") has us hooked. Myspace em now....Otherwise stay tuned for news from our London cronies as they crash The Frieze Art Fair festivities while we spend the night with W's new Art Issue. It is really really good this year, begging the question, has the art world finally outflanked the fashion world in the cultural glamour sweepstakes? Stay tuned but we're feeling like we're in the right place at the right time.And it is an exciting time to boot.

Rad Hourani SS08: First Look

Rad Hournai SS08Rad Hournai SS08

I wasn't there in New York City in the mid-80's when Stephen Sprouse sent out his kohl eyed neon-clad night sirens from behind a stacked bank of Marshall amps at a dank NY nightclub to the throb of The Stones' "2000 Light Years From Home". I wasn't in Paris in the mid-90's when Helmut Lang, freshly relocated from Vienna sent Stella and Sibyl and Kirsten out in his perfectly cut little tuxedo pants worn with gauze blouses and little capes and trains for effect. But I'm very happy to say, I was there, mid-Zeroes when Rad Hourani unleashed his debut collection on a beautiful Friday afternoon in Paris.

The Monumental Herbert Muschamp (RIP)

File Under Architecture: Herbert MuschampFile Under Architecture: Herbert Muschamp

Back in NY its hard to see the skyline behind the gray sheets of rain coming down. But it is the perfect backdrop for reading the elegy of former NY Times architecture critic Herbert Muschamp . It was published in The Times on October 3rd, written by Nicolai Ouroussoff and this is the section that moved me most.

His criticism stood out for the way he wove together
seemingly unrelated themes in an arch,
self-deprecating tone, a signature style that helped
break down the image of the critic as an all-knowing
figure who wrote from atop a pedestal.

In a typically sprawling review, of Mr. Gehry’s newly
opened, titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao,
Spain, in 1997, Mr. Muschamp evoked the ghost of
Marilyn Monroe:

“After my first visit to the building, I went back to
the hotel to write notes. It was early evening and
starting to rain. I took a break to look out the
window and saw a woman standing alone outside a bar
across the street. She was wearing a long, white dress
with matching white pumps, and she carried a
pearlescent handbag. Was her date late? Had she been
stood up?

“When I looked back a bit later, she was gone. And I
asked myself, Why can’t a building capture a moment
like that? Then I realized that the reason I’d had
that thought was that I’d just come from such a
building. And that the building I’d just come from was
the reincarnation of Marilyn Monroe.”

He went on: “What twins the actress and the building
in my memory is that both of them stand for an
American style of freedom. That style is voluptuous,

The Social Climbers Guide To Paris Fashion Week: Post Party Post

Ms Coco Rocha: winner of the Best Brand Narrative Award at the TI dinner!Ms Coco Rocha: winner of the Best Brand Narrative Award at the TI dinner!

I was standing somewhere in the massive stone sprawl of The Louvre late last night when this American friend of mine, now living in Paris smashed one of the city's last remaining illusions into fragments. “You do know, don't you that a lot of Paris' architecture is faux. In the 18th century they made a lot of changes to the 17th century buildings. In the 19th they adjusted aspects of the 18th and today they preserve, preserve, preserve. But when they preserve and restore they use 21th century materials. So you're not looking at anything exactly the way it was. The whole core of the city is a face-lift.” True or not, what my friend taught me though was useful and it was useful for fashion. Because now as I sit a CDG waiting to my flight back to NY,( back to that all that restless, ruthless modernity that preserves very little), it occurs to me that a city can infect your creative process.


Ugo Rondinone: "The Third Mind" Exhibit: Palais de Tokyo: ParisUgo Rondinone: "The Third Mind" Exhibit: Palais de Tokyo: Paris

New York couldn't do it. Whatever the information overload that comes with NY Fashion Week, it was still possible to keep TI's output flowing. But the convergence in Paris of a Fashion Week, tonight's Nuit Blanche and a sporting extravaganza (a Rugby World Cup) has this staid and monumental city crackling with a dynamic energy that made us pass out. It was there first and foremost at Rad Hourani's unveiling this morning in a little gallery on a side street of The Marais. I went prepared to be polite and encouraging and then left shaking from the completeness of vision on the part of one so young. When Vogue Italia cover girl, Meghan Collison stalked out in jet black, hair in the face, head down , purposefully marching , that was it! Jouissance! If you missed it, you missed history. We begged Rad afterwards to bring that complete vision to NY next season. I don't want to over-talk what I saw. I snapped tons of pictures and as soon as I download them onto a disc I want you to see the images over at OTM on MDC for yourself

It Is Set To Be An Event!

Rad Hourani Show Invite Pt. 1Rad Hourani Show Invite Pt. 1

Less than 48 hrs to go to Rad Hourani's unveiling and Mode's 20th. The physical invite has been described by some pretty unsentimental critics as "major". Anticipation meter is in the red zone. Stay tuned!

Rad Hourani Show Invite Pt. 2Rad Hourani Show Invite Pt. 2

And Now For The Antidote!

Peter Coffin: Emmanuel PerrotinPeter Coffin:Emmanuel Perrotin

The Imagist might be more image than text in the next two days as we go through information intake. That might take a little time to process before output. Weds will be an antidote to yesterday's fashion marathon. The previously mentioned Crasset/Halley collab at Thaddeus Ropac tops the bill but can't wait to see this Peter Coffin exhibit at Galarie Emmanuel Perrotin.

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Taste is a dictatorship.


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