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Reference Library: LEGENDARY Vogue EDITORIAL

Nadja Auermann and Kirsten McMenamy in US Vogue: Ph: MeiselNadja Auermann and Kirsten McMenamy in US Vogue: Ph: Meisel

That legendary grunge moment in fashion ! That grunge collection of Marc Jacob's for Perry Ellis that got him fired (and sent him on the road to Vuitton). That incredible 1992 Meisel shoot for US Vogue that counts as one of the most legendary editorials of all time. Here's Max's latest installment from his reference library.

The year was 1992. Kate Moss, Corrine Day, Juergen Teller, David Sims are all on their way up and are creating a new style of fashion out of London via The Face and ID. How will the gatekeepers of cool in NY react? For Marc Jacobs, the style of American bands like Pearl Jam and Nirvana was like a gift from heaven, because with the music, came a very specific look. Marc takes the flannel and the thermals, the vintage dresses worn with combat boots and turns it into a deluxe collection in silk and cashmere with the prices to match. Steven Meisel takes the super-glamorous supermodels Nadja and Naomi and Kirsten and strips them of all the usual make-up for a very dressed down look. The Old Guard in fashion nearly lose their minds but the kids love it. It is one of the boldest statements ever seen in a mainstream magazine and that's why we rank it right up there as one of the fabulous editorials ever!

CURRENT READING: Felix GONZALEZ-Torres:Guggenheim Museum

Felix Gonzalez-Torres: Untitled: Canada: 1995Felix Gonzalez-Torres: Untitled: Canada: 1995

There are certain artists who come along with ideas that not only define, but also change their times. Warhol in the 60's . Beuys in the 70's. Koons for the 80's and this is where I get myself in trouble- Felix Gonzalez-Torres for the 90's. Yes, yes Damien Hirst is the monolithic art-star of that era but the aforementioned hall of fame is personal and idiosyncratic. The thing I love about Felix Gonzalez-Torres is that I grew up with his imagery in NYC yet had no idea who he was, in the same that Warhol, Beuys and Koons invaded and warped my consciousness before I even learnt to process the "cool images" as "art". That is the power of the greatest art. It confronts you at the strangest turn, even when you don't know its name. This is why I was so excited today at The Strand bookstore, when I found this legendary volume on Gonzalez-Torres, published by The Guggenheim Museum in 1995 on the occasion of his solo exhibition . It has long been out of print and was reissued by the Museum this year, when Gonzalez-Torres was chosen to represent the United States at the 2007 Venice Biennale.


Droog Milk Bottle LampDroog Milk Bottle Lamp

Try finding any period, designer or movement in furniture design that has not already been oversubscribed. Near impossible! Jet set smoked glass and chrome 60's modernism? Done to death. Memphis? Got 50K for a table? Mid-90's Droog?...Hang on...that's actually still recent enough on the radar to be nicely priced. So let's scoop up all the milk bottle lamps we can find.
Let's hoard up those Tejo Remy chest-of-drawers and break out the wobble glasses for what they're worth. Which in 10 years should be a lot more than their current going price. Best thing about these Droog pieces? They are right in sync with all the environmentally conscious buzzwords of The Zeroes. A milk bottle is recycling personified no? And how "found object/ready made" is the chest of drawers. Most convincing of all was Remy's Rag Chair that still shines through with a homemade "sustainable" charm. Ebaying all things Droog now.

Tejo Remy Chest Of DrawersTejo Remy Chest Of Drawers


Galarie Almine Rech: Perfect Stranger:Hedi SlimaneGalarie Almine Rech: Perfect Stranger:Hedi Slimane

The Hedi art velocity continues! Opening November 28th 2007.


Liquid Sky Poster :1982Liquid Sky Poster :1982

Confession: I have never watched this film with the volume on because somwhere during the first attempt the combination of the squealing Fairlight CMI soundtrack and the bad line delivery by the actors fried my nerve endings. But simply stripped back to the visuals, Liquid Sky is brilliant and a must see for any disciple of the day-glo, NuRave, New Neon club and street culture welling up right now in the late-Zeroes. Nevermind the plot... which has something to do with aliens in minature flying saucers feeding off the endorphins emitted from the brains of Early-80's scensters during heroin highs or sexual climax.

Anne Carlisle as "Jimmy" in Liquid SkyAnne Carlisle as "Jimmy" in Liquid Sky

The Club Kids Club Back!

Andre J +Carolyn Murphy /IMG: Vogue Paris: Nov 07: Bruce WeberAndre J +Carolyn Murphy /IMG: Vogue Paris: Nov 07: Bruce Weber

Fashion shall not live by fashion alone. It needs to eat art and music and the new bands and the new kids in the clubs if it is to stay current. Now that downtown denizen Andre J is riding the cover of November's Vogue Paris, will that clinch his long pending record deal? It's bound to go No 1 on the English charts, no? I hope Inez and Vinoodh will really do the video...But how did this whole subversion of what fashion is or isn't come about? It's all Joe McKenna's idea said Andre to about a week ago. McKenna put Andre in touch with Bruce Weber, (it's an All Bruce All The Time editorial well this month ) Carine Roitfeld went... hmmmm and the rest is history..

The Delicate Lash: The Art of Carol Bove

Carol Bove: Driscoll Garden: Installation 105 X 197 X 81.5Carol Bove: Driscoll Garden: Installation 105 X 197 X 81.5

Carol Bove is one of my favorite multi-media artist for reasons both superficial and not so superficial. Because she is so delicate in her touch , it is easy to to get caught in the light sweep of her visuals but there is some serious bite in her references to the radical politics (sexual and otherwise) of the 60's and 70's. I'd give a left arm for one of her elegantly etched ink drawings but even more gripping are her installations.

Now here is where the superficial part comes in. I'm dreaming of a new pad as a counterpoint to my NY place (preferably in LA) and I'd love for it to look like a full on Carol Bove installation. It took five decades for the bourgeoisie to integrate abstract paintings into their everyday living rooms. I'm sure that in the future, every good orthodontist's wife will need a good conceptual "intervention" in the middle of the mid-cent mod split level. And Carol Bove's shelvings and hangings will be her text book.

Current Listening: Calvin Harris:Merrymaking At My Place

Calvin Harris: I Created Disco:Calvin Harris: I Created Disco:

Had a lunchtime meet with Scott Lipps at 1 Mgmt today. Scotty always knows what's new and now in music. I said "Name that one group/band/song/ that is ruling it right now". Scott knows I'm an ex-club kid and lifetime dancehead and recommended Calvin Harris "I Created Disco" . "Very you," he assured. "Merrymaking At My Place" is getting played a lot at places like The Rose Bar down at The Gramercy he assured. I Myspaced Calvin Harris and like the wiggle of his boogie. And I love his mythology. Nice Scottish boy from Dumfries becomes ill as a teen, locks himself in his room for two years and starts to make dream dance music on his ancient Amiga computer. He works at the local supermarket saving enough to move to London. London proves to be so expensive he works all the time and makes no dosh , so moves back (tail between legs) to Dumfries. He almost gives up, but gives the dream one more try, even warbling on his new tracks. He puts em up on Myspace in 2005. Next thing you know he draws a manager, Pete Tong starts banging "The Girls" in his sets, Columbia signs Calvin up and Kylie's people call up to write some tracks ("Into My Arms", "Heartbeat Rock") for the new album. Now the boy is a superstar producer with a band and everything. I find all this truly inspiring. If it is all a hustle its all the more genius for it!

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