Toni Garrn as the height of Teutonic Android Chic :Image via thefashionspot

Everything behind the scenes seems to be a lot more interesting these days than what's going on the dull runways of NY. That is until the Calvin unspooled. You don't expect revolutionary clothes at Calvin but the house just hit us with a 95% black collection . They usually party like its 1999 (think greige) on those premises and you have to find that admirable. But something interesting and surprising and symbolic happened with the line-up. For instance there was a certain sleek African beauty (Liya) flitting among the racks . The big names got stripped down to Lily D and Freja. Some of the most enviable of new girls were there (Malin, Diana F, Taryn, Abbey Lee, Siri) . And Camilla Nickerson instituted a big big change in the line-up by opening with Ali Stephens while closing with Toni Garrn. Very diplomatic no? ...On the other side of town (and the other side of aesthetic tastes) TI takes back the report on the state of serenity at Marc Collection. Outfits are literally being built even as we speak, girls are being called to go-sees at midnight and Marc is stirring it all up with characteristic passion. Our hissers overhead a conversation that one of the inspirations for Mr Jacobs was a photograph of a 20's woman in a strange skirt playing tennis. How the hell will that translate I simply don't know. Especially when looks are still being built...Headed over now to the Rad, the looks are locked, the girls are being fitted and our mysterious new exclusive, a fresh faced newcomer just landed her NY agency.