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THE PARIS PRINCIPLE

Maddie at Supreme, the kind of stealth force streaking towards Paris SS10Maddie at Supreme, the kind of stealth force streaking towards Paris SS10

Earlier today, while making my afternoon agency rounds , I confessed to a certain power manager that I no longer had a working compass on which shows to use to track breaking new models. That's being dramatic but it makes for a theatrical assertion. Every season the pattern shifts. There are seasons when New York spews out a flood of new models at Marc, Calvin, Donna, Alexander, Proenza..and then these girls migrate to Milan only to find themselves deliberately ignored. That is then followed by the very parisian practice of every designer convening his own hermetic cabine, opening with who he damn well pleases, thus destroying any hope for continuity of booking patterns.
But look at what's happening for SS 2010. Bizarrely enough,this year there is actually consensus among rival casting camps and design houses as to who constitutes the ranks of the current crop of in-demand girls. IMG's Jak, being a great case in point, is still holding strong from last season as a premiere girl and among the newcomers girls like Mirte (Women) Frida (IMG) Kate Kosushkina (Supreme) Jacqueline (Ford) and Anasataja (Next) have actually had an impressive follow through out of NYC into Milan.
You can clearly see also the girls who are being clustered around the Prada camp ( Lisanne de Jong/Elite, Amanda Norgaard ) as opposed to the Calvin/Jil Sander camp ( Sona/IMG, Kristy/Major, ) with the pivotal Givenchy circle already marshalling its very personal and peculiar body of girls. The latter house has the great advantage of being the last big-make or break booking of the season. That means Givenchy has the great privilege of being able to render a culminative casting.
Does this mean then that for the first time in years Paris will lock those popular new faces into key runway slots? Or will we say another burst of previously unseen faces in the way that saw the rise of Ranya out the Givenchy camp last season. The final cycle for SS10 starts in two days but the interesting question to filter now is , will the girls who performed consistently across all four runway platforms (NYC, London, Milan, Paris) be the ones who convert into the key editorials and campaigns with the Meisels, Sims and Testinos or will the bookings swing left field towards the Paris exclusivity girls.
All this is not rocket science but for model watchers it is our peculiar amusement. The cynical anticipation in all this is that this rush of 15 and 16 year olds stand little chance of swiping campaigns from those long-distance runners firmly entrenched in the business. But the truly formidable one or two just might and those are the girls who make the game worth playing. Stay tuned.

Taste is a dictatorship.

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