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THE EMPIRE'S NEW CLOTHES: MILAN MEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2010

But is Jil Sander Men's Spring 2010 a collecter's collection? Image via frillr.comBut is Jil Sander Men's Spring 2010 a collecter's collection? Image via frillr.com

By "empire" I do mean the orthodoxy of the men's fashion industry: that monolith of big designer brands as sold at four figure sums out of sephucral department stores and super-niche boutiques on exclusive shopping boulevards. Very 19th century carriage trade no? What's the future of that? Who's the consumer in question? Maybe the hustle's up but I do think there's a future for high-priced designer clothes . I do think that as long as there is human vanity , shallow competitiveness and the superficial thrill of going to parties only to hear your arch-rivals mew "Oh that's a beautiful jacket. Is it Balenciaga?" there might be much hope for the empire . This is what I suspect that rare species: the dedicated consumer of designer fashion is looking for...something signature yet inventive that you buy as much as to collect and curate your closet as to wear. I really think that it about clothes that have an ambition to be at least memorable. Which would then make the SS 2010 Milan Men's Collections an endless tundra of predictability and cliche. But that's men's clothing for ya. Spring means color ! ( Best expressed at Bottega... Not so much at D Squared) Spring means Western wear ! (D&G) and ...Denim! (Ditto) . Warm weather means..jackets and shorts ensembles....In techno fabrics (Calvin)! Which leads to our favorite misadventure..the transparency at Prada and Calvin. That I enjoyed because of the instant assumption of unwearability. Which means a dedicated follower is morally obliged to wear the look against the backdrop of a Miami sunset. Think about the backlighting possibilities!

go, CK, go!

i am sorry, but what's collectible (or in need of being curated at that sense) about DSquared or D&G? these are two labels which, for me, epitomize the whole pre-recession way of thinking and living and now feel nothing but a relict. the very method of DD and DG boys has gone totally demode (sparkles, hunk's tank tops and shredded denim, anyone?) and never thought i'd say that, but kudos to Roberto Cavalli for being able to jump off that tanned-muscles-stuck-in-a-tiny-brief bandwagon. the whole scene reminds of 2004, no? urgh!
this is, what i hope, changing within the industry - we need to change our way of thinking, not just the clothes we want to be fed with. till then, please, let someone else eat Swarovski crystals.

Uhmmm ...never said...

that DSquared or D& G were collectible. The preceding sentence inferred that I personally thought those collections were "a tundra of predictability and cliche". You certainly wouldn't want to collect that!

But I'll be happy to print what I plan to collect (or curate my closet with) . Though that's very easy to figure out lol

One Love
TI

hate jil sander ss10! raf

hate jil sander ss10! raf possesses that rare ingenuity that only few are blessed with, but most of his outfits are not that spetacular when they reach the stores - compared to what he shows on runway. although i have enough money to afford jil sander - sorry to say that - id never buy any of his designs considering it might be a collectors item...fashion is TODAY, the past belongs to museums and museums are not for me!

Fuck all that!

The Rick Owens was the BEST collection of the season hands down! That was the hotness.

Taste is a dictatorship.

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