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HOW TO MAKE MODELS MATTER NOW

Eniko at Marilyn matters  right now in all the right editorials :PH Sorrenti for Vogue Paris Eniko at Marilyn matters right now in all the right editorials :PH Sorrenti for Vogue Paris

Is it me or did the average age of the current crop of Newcomers drop precipitously this season. Have I not been paying attention or did we just weather a sudden deluge of 15-and-unders flooding the catwalks of New York (IMG's Jac), Milan (Women's Auguste) and Paris ( Rose and Addison at Supreme/Women Paris). As such, those break out girls found their Paris bookings severely curtailed by the rule-set that meant Under-16's could not work the Sunday shows (thus the evaporation of Rose's Givenchy exclusive) nor fit past 8.00pm on weekdays. There were plenty of girls swilling around to fill in those vacancies, from Tao to Alina to Anna de Rejik, Bara Holtova and Luisa Kamshilina. These were all girls that appeared very high on the MDC watch list this season with 3 of those picking up some serious FW 09 campaign options (which means expanding that Top Newcomers list by 2 or 3 more faces) .

Imagine then a season where easily 20 breaking girls have come off all shimmery from the right FW 09 runway exposure. But who will survive? How will their managers convert all those exclusives and openings and closings into editorial (and more importantly) advertorial mileage. As such many of the SS 09 break out girls are already starting to register as dull in the restless eyes of those directional editors and photographers. It is one thing to walk the blank walk down the blank catwalk but it is entirely another to A. Engage the camera in photo-shoots for the mag pages and the ads while..B. Moving some product. Statistically of the flood of 20 each season , only 3 or 4 of those girls ever find any kind of career consistency and stories of ill advised arrogance on the part of some girls demanding opening slots before heading to a fitting just makes one shake their head ....As in..(sigh) ...here comes the back-lash.

But then there are girls who are moved across the chessboard in the right way. Take the beautiful case of Eniko, Marilyn's ace face currently shuttling, it seems, between the sets of Mario Sorrenti and Inez and Vinoodh in heavy heavy rotation. Though not catwalk perfect, it is a girl like this who now sits in prime positioning for the FW 09 campaign season, precisely because she's proven to have a life in front of the cameras. Eniko is a lot of things that is not ultra-fashionable these days. She's womanly and her portfolio of "sexy" shots is beginning to rival Lara Stone's. Eniko is not generic but there's the triumph. She's unique...distinct...emphatic. There is much about her that is too..too. But you remember her precisely because of that "too-ness". I wish I could be more articulate in mapping that "je ne sais quois" that will make it easy to calibrate the girls who will last and those who were just designed to walk a lot of directional catwalks but make no impact beyond those fleeting exits.

It is too early to say and too tenuous to reveal who's holding/confirming what these days but rest assured it is the striking and the extreme that seem to be filtering into the next phase. Among the buzz I picked up by some art directors is a disenchantment with the "multiples" ideal, that concept of an army of models rocking as many of the looks from the show as possible while waving as many possible it-bags as can be crammed into a double page. Two VERY big brands have already gone "Only Girl" which might mean even less work for those indistinct new faces who fail to distinguish themselves but more work for the models who matter. And that is precisely the way it should be, no?

reminds me of back in the day

where all of the models started looking the same, and then came around the baby doll faces starting with Gemma. Go Eniko!

It can be an amazing job....

I couldn't agree with you more Wayne, I also was dismayed at the "just turned 14 or 15 year old catwalk stars")

It was so refreshing to see some older girls like Eniko, Lara, Katrin's gorgeous emerging womanliness be explored in photo

One of the problems with these very young girls is for them, they are working in a job at 14/ 15, that is really wrong for their development, as it interrupts their school, their developing social network, it is a fragile time for the development of self image, instead of being with friends in school, they are often lonely... alone in foreign countries, with a lot of people much older than themselves..(crew and agents who are not friends really but employers or workmates)

BUT at 17/18/19 up, it is the BEST job for someone this age, they are finished highschool, looking to grow their wings and look at the world, to break away a little from their parents and experience life, they are more comfortable with their new more grown up bodies than they are at 14/15, and are starting to take control over their own life, they can enjoy and get a lot out of the experience of modelling and travelling and learning, even if they don't make a lot of money or become "stars"

But at 14/ 15/ 16, the early developers can miss school and a normal fun teenagehood and spend a lot of it lonely and depressed, then grow hips boobs at 17/18 and put on a bit of weight , and are dumped from the modelling world before they ever enjoyed it. That is where to me the industry takes on an exploitative edge.. (though I have nothing against girls scouted at this age and doing local modelling gigs while otherwise enjoying a normal teenage life)

I think though it is parents who can make the decision to slow it down and wait, parents are not a business (and don't have to think like a business).. but agencies and clients are.... it is the parents who should say NO and look to the best interests of the child and wait because that is their job. Just my opinion...

eniko

eniko is so stunning. her body is other worldly. i wish the industry trend would shift to older girls. (by older i mean around 18-ha!)

Tabea and Lurve Magazine

what do you think about Tabea Koebach at Marilyn. She has garnered a cover at the new Lurve Magazine. A magazine about those that are emerging. Does it say much about her future? Does anyone want to learn about emerging or is it best to refer to it as a revovling door? I look forward to Lurve changing that skeptical POV, love books about the creative class

Its not just you.. or maybe

Its not just you.. or maybe the ones that made the biggest impacts were so young... Jac (15), Auguste (14?).. couldn't even walk Paris.

Alla

Alla made a huge impact this season in my opinion and i hear she is 21yr, that she waited to finish her degree before taking on modelling at an international level, with some life experience behind her she will be bringing so much more than the new kids

Taste is a dictatorship.

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