Whew...what a week in fashion that was...with everything from the mags to the campaigns (which I'll call "camps" because I'm too burnt today to do full spellings) previewing and pre-leaking like their lives depend on it. WWD especially has been stepping up to the plate, making sure they bagged the good stuff for FW 08 before the fashionspotters and 24/7 bloggers could upload them....It leads to all sort of thoughts about the future of print and its clunky lead times. I suppose the modern thing is not to choose but to revel in the best of both worlds. That's TI's tactic for sure these days.... I immersed myself last night in the new ID. I realize recently I had not been "reading" magazines, just skimming them. When I was a teenager I read fashion mags, page by page, line by line, trying to analyse their structure, flow, internal politics, taste points...Now in my ADD life, I just speed through, only paying attention to the high notes, so to speak. This is what I have to say about the July ID however. Its genius in the way it has adjusted to the shift in current reader consciousness provoked by the internet. For instance , I used to read left to right, front to back. Now I realize I process information in random layers...like in a blog where all the recent information is always on top. I counted, for the record, the time it took to cruise through all my favorite fashion blogs...It took me 25 seconds this morning to process the latest news from nymag.com's The Cut . The same for fashionologie and frillr. And I loved that I got the news I needed
between sips of that morning green tea.
The ID took me two hours which was a exercise in discipline really, but what I loved about the mag was how it presented the information to me in bits, bytes and layers. I love the cut-ups and cross-pollination. Sasha+Comme des Garcons defaced by KAWS. I love its easy way with a global/multicultural cast of subjects. Its only in retrospect that you notice there were TWO Only Girl stories featuring Asian models, the Korean punk princess Daul and the Chinese beauty, Du Juan. Those edits were smashed up beside features on L'll Wayne, Pharell, Kanye and Usher. There was a Top 10 New faces features with All The Right Girls and there were Only Boy fashion edits with models both Caucasian and East Indian . The ease of that melange: free, casual and un-self-conscious just felt so great and so true. Cut-up diversity, new juxtapositions of familiar things with unfamiliar elements, street clothes and blue chip labels all kissing. (Sigh) Maybe its a London thing.
I thought too about the career trajectory of Sasha Pivovarova. One of the most fascinating things about the day job is watching managers move their models across the booking grid. Its become like a board game where the rules shift season to season but the really smart agents know how to keep the girl moving without stepping on those booking booby traps. When Sasha P's 9 season campaign exclusivity for Prada ended , model trackers were curious as to what could come next. Chanel? Karl Lagerfeld's been using Miss P to open a few shows so that would be a logical destination, eventually. Vuitton? Valentino? Dior? . Meanwhile the girl's clearly making lucrative dollars. I got this Bergdorf's mailer at home and had a giggle.Cleverly disguised as a mag (Very "W" in fact) BG harnessed young photogs like Chad Pittman and old guard journos like Micheal Gross to come up with a bit of soft sell luxury merchandising. And you can't beat that Prada after-glow for cachet . The girl they used to call "icy" "robotic" and a "Gemma lookalike" has certainly warmed up into the full blaze of multi-million dollar commercial possibilities. That's good chess for ya.